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简单的中国蒸鱼
我总对中国菜保持着一如既往的客观态度，却隐藏不住我对粤式烹鱼的喜爱。在北京，上海或四川省，鱼多半是在平底锅里炸过，调味重，或是淋上了一层红辣椒汤。那都很不错，但都比不上蒸鱼的清爽滋味，鱼的鲜味完全没有被盖住。广东省临海，位置得天独厚。难怪蒸鱼是广东饮食里一道固定的美食。
我教授中餐烹饪课的时候，常有学生被用铁锅蒸鱼给吓住了。一旦他们尝试做过以后，便会惊奇的发现这样蒸鱼竟有这么容易。所以，下面介绍一下做粤式蒸鱼的一些简单步骤。
1.抓条活鱼，没有活的起码也要新鲜的。广东菜馆以有大量的鱼为傲。我家的人几乎从来没有买鱼来而不给他们自己挑上一条的。要做好这道菜，就要去鱼市场，或去中国城买鱼。如果你不得不用摆在冰上的鱼，也要选一条经过适当储藏的（用冰好好盖着的，没有泡在一滩冰冷的水里）。保证鱼眼是清澈的，不浑浊。
2.买一个金属丝制的蒸架，又叫蒸笼。蒸笼很便宜，最多几美元。必要时，还要倒扣一只碗，确保碗够大，能保持盛鱼的盘子的平衡。
3.以少为多——不需要豆瓣酱，料酒或太多油。只要一点点调味料来做鱼，蒸的方法可以产生一种天然的味道。
姜汁黑豆蒸鱼
供3到4人食用
一磅重整鱼
一汤匙发酵黑豆，剁碎
一瓣蒜，切碎
一英寸生姜一块，切丝或用小刨刀刨成丝
葱两根，切成小段
植物油一汤匙
芝麻油半茶匙
柠檬半个
特殊厨具——金属丝蒸架或类似物，带盖子的铁锅
把鱼洗净，用一块厨房专用的毛巾拍干。用一把锋利的刀在鱼腹部下刀切开至鱼尾。把黑豆，蒜，姜和一般的葱段混在一起，塞满鱼肚子。把鱼放在中号盘子上，淋上植物油和芝麻油，挤一点柠檬汁在鱼上。
铁锅装2到3英寸高的水，煮沸。把鱼盘小心的放在蒸架上，盖上锅盖。蒸10到12分钟，这取决于鱼的中间有多厚。用勺子或筷子戳鱼最厚的部位，检查鱼是否熟透。如果鱼肉轻轻就能剥落，鱼就蒸好了。
在鱼身上撒上另一半葱段作为装饰，然后直接用它待客。
Easy Chinese Steamed Fish
As much as I'd like to remain objective on Chinese food, it's hard to hide my favoritism towards Cantonese fish. In Beijing, Shanghai, or Sichuan province, fish is most likely pan-fried, heavily sauced, or buried in a broth of chilies. That's all nice, but nothing beats the clear flavor of steamed fish, with nothing to disguise the freshness. Guangdong province is spoiled in its coastal proximity. No wonder steamed fish became so entrenched in the diet.
When I taught Chinese cooking classes, I often had students who were intimidated by steaming fish in a wok. And once they tried, they were surprised by how easy it is. So, here are a few simple steps to steaming a fish, Cantonese style.
1. Pick a live one. Or at least a fresh one. - Cantonese restaurants take pride in their enormous fish tanks. And my family almost never orders fish without picking one out themselves. To get the most out of this recipe, find a fish market or head to Chinatown. If you must use fish on ice, pick one that is properly store (well-covered with ice, not sitting in a puddle of cold water). And make sure the eyes are clear, not cloudy.
2. Invest in a wire steamer rack, also called a steamer insert. - They're cheap, a few bucks at the most. In a pinch, you can also turn a bowl upside-down; just make sure it's wide enough to balance your fish plate.
3. Less is more - No need for soy sauce, cooking wine, or lots of oil. You need only a few seasonings for the fish, and the steaming will create a natural sauce.
Chinese Steamed Fish with Black Bean and Ginger Sauce
Serves 3 to 4
1 pound whole white fish
1 tablespoon fermented black beans, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1 1-inch knob ginger, julienned or shredded with a microplane
2 stalks scallions, thinly sliced
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/2 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 lemon
Special equipment - wire steamer rack or similar, wok with lid
Clean your fish and pat dry with a kitchen towel. With a sharp knife, make a slit in the belly almost to the tail. Mix together black bean, garlic, ginger, and half the scallions; stuff the mixture into the slit. Place the fish in a medium-sized plate and pour over with vegetable and sesame oil. Squeeze a bit of lemon juice over the fish.
Fill your wok with 2 to 3 inches of water and bring to boil. Carefully set your plate on the rack, then cover with the lid. Steam for 10 to 12 minutes, depending on how thick your fish is in the middle. Check for doneness by poking the flesh with a spoon or chopstick at the thickest point; if the flesh flakes off easily, your fish is done.
Garnish with the other half of your scallions and serve immediately.
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